The last day of 2009 is filled with hope for change in our visual culture. Today, V Magazine released its second editorial entitled “Curves Ahead” for its upcoming spring 2010 Size Issue on models.com. These images (see all of them on models.com as bloggers were asked to only post two pictures) do anything but cut the models down to size, as was done in the first editorial; they proudly celebrate the fashion of curves. What is more, the images keep with a high fashion aesthetic and aspiration that has, until now, exclusively been reserved for thin models – further demolishing the myth that models need to be a particular size to be featured in high fashion.

My hope is that these images will not only rock our foundation by challenging who we consider beautiful, but it will shift the culture of the industry decisions makers when developing editorials, creating campaigns, and casting models. Living in a culture where we are bombarded by cookie-cutter fashion images, it is difficult for some to imagine what they would look like with different sized (and aged, ability, and background) models. We have not had the opportunity to see these representations in our popular culture. But just as Dove showed us how beautiful diversity could look in personal care advertising, V Magazine is showing us how beautiful diversity can look in fashion editorial. Both are offering us a new way to see. In 2010, let’s use this lens to celebrate diversity and, most importantly, make it an every issue occurrence.

V Magazine Every Body in Beautiful Issue January 2009

When I first heard about the V Magazine spread, I could not help but be excited: A high fashion magazine was embracing size diversity. The preview of the editorial was released, and I was even more excited because the editors and stylists had not played it safe – Crystal Renn, the size 12 model, was not styled in a drab or safe manner, but with the same high fashion clothes, glamour and artistry as the size two model. She was shown in patterns, body conscious fashions, and loads of accessories.

When Kate Harding interviewed me on the spread for salon.com, I explained (as I had in my previous blog post on this topic) that these two facts – Crystal was in a high fashion magazine and was styled in a high fashion convention – was progress. I also explained that we live in two separate worlds: fashion and humankind. When real people who aren’t in the industry talk about it, they often have to jump into a funhouse and realize they’re entering a completely distorted world.

But I told Kate I did see what she saw, that Crystal’s size had been cut down. I saw it as someone going on a photoshop binge, especially compared to Crystal’s beautiful spread in Harper’s Baazar Australia where her natural body and beauty was celebrated. But I thought it was great that she could be photographed in such a variety of styles, as V and Harper’s creative visions were very different. But the reality of the V spread could not escape me. Why did Crystal not look like her usual voluptuous self? Even more, why did using plus size models require a special issue?

Sarah Kliff in Newsweek echoed my discomfort. She argues that whether Renn has lost weight or V editors went photoshop crazy, neither of these fit particularly well into the everyone-is-beautiful ideals that V is promoting. Sarah also suggests that running a special issue to feature larger women declares that this is not the norm, these are not regular models and, next month, they will return to what is the norm. For her, it proves that fat has yet to become fashionable.

I certainly agree with Sarah, but I still argue that this V Magazine issue is a revolution. But no longer because it features plus size models or because they are styled in a high fashion manner. V is a revolution because it has created dialogue and debate about what we want to see and how we want to see it. Remember it is also a first attempt. When Mark Fast used plus models in his London show, they did not have the proper undergarments or walk, and were heavily critiqued for both. But when William Tempest and Sunny Fong used plus models after Mark, no critique. Both had learned from his first effort.

As fashion endeavors to incorporate diversity, it will make mistakes. It is our job, as readers, consumers and change agents, to voice our thoughts and ideas because, only by doing so, will we shape the industry we really want to see. So next time, let’s see a size 16 or 18, some age and cultural variety, and less photoshop.

Crystal Renn in Harper’s Baazar Australia May 2009 (an outtake with absolutely no retouching)

Relaxing over the holiday season, I spent some time surfing the compressive database on style.com of past collections – and came across an exciting discovery. The Etro Men’s Fall 2009 show during Milan Fashion Week included several mature, gray and white haired, and wrinkle proud models.

The one woman can be viewed as revolutionary. A woman wearing men’s clothes is considered sexy – and typically one would expect a young model to strut down the catwalk. Yet the fact they have a sophisticated white haired women can be seen are proclaiming that mature women are every bit as, if not more, sexy as their younger counterparts.

While recent uses diversity garnered major press, the Entro show went off without a sound bite.  Why? People are unsure, cautious, and thoroughly terrified when it comes to speaking about men and body image. Questioning men’s body image destabilizes all our beliefs about masculinity because “real men” are not suppose to be worried about how they look. In real life, we know this is anything but true.

Such a move might also have gone unnoticed because men were seen to be just as, if not more, handsome as they age. So no big deal. While such a sentiment was believed several decades ago, today it has been completely erased. Men’s magazines are filled with young, toned, and wrinkle-free men. Every anti-aging promise offered to women is now urgently offered to men.

No matter how you interpret the use of mature models, one point is clear: Etro understands their target market. Their consumers are not all young, and this show demonstrates how men of different ages can wear their creations. I hope that the Etro catwalk encourages us to speak more about men and body image as well inspires other designers – both menswear and womenswear – to also authentically include age diversity in their shows.

Perhaps next time Etro and others can take age diversity a step further by varying the ethnicities of their mature models.

The January issue of V Magazine is another step forward for body variety in the fashion world. The Size Issue will showcase models of different sizes wearing glamourous, forward fashion shot and styled with all the modern high fashion conventions. V Editor Stephen Gan explains: “Big, little, pint-size, plus-size – every body is beautiful. And this issue is out to prove it.”

What is particularly groundbreaking is that the magazine is at the top of the high fashion pyramid; powerhouses in the industry have all contributed, such as Hedi Slimane, Mario Testino, and Karl Lagerfeld. It further demonstrates that size diversity is not limited to commercial fashion brands but can be successfully incorporated into all sectors of the industry.

Thanks to V Magazine, we are able to bring you a look at one of the stunning editorials. This particular spread showcases two models – one size 2 and one size 12 – wearing the same outfit. The message is clear: High fashion has no size limit. This certainly dispels the myth that certain styles look better on certain sizes. Instead, we can all look gorgeous in haute couture, and now we can finally begin to picture ourselves – with all the artistry and glamour – in it.

I do want to note that the images have been majority airbrushed. The revolution here is fact they are including a size 12 model in a high fashion spread and, even more, that they are showing her in high fashion posing and styling (i.e. who says a size 12 woman cannot pattern mix, load up on accessories, and wear body conscious couture). The fact that both models’ uniqueness – love handles, cellulite, wrinkles etc – have been photoshopped out is another revolution waiting to happen.